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Appliances:
Always buy Energy Star labeled equipment when replacing or adding new appliances.
Ovens and Stoves:
Stove top solid disk and radiant elements take longer to heat up and use
more electric than halogen or induction elements. Self-cleaning ovens use
less electric because they are better insulated. If possible, use a microwave
or toaster oven rather than a full sized oven.
Clothes Washers & Dryers:
Front loading clothes washers use much less water and energy than top loaded
models. Tests show that clothes will be cleaned just as well in cold water
as in hot, just make sure that you use appropriate detergent. Over-drying
your clothes in the clothes dryer will not only waste energy but will reduce
the life of your clothes. Experiment with the "auto dry" setting
on your dryer to find the setting that works best. Always keep the lint
screen and outside dryer vent clean. As an alternative to energy hog dryers
and to increase clothing life, use an in-house clothes line to dry clothes
in the winter which will also help raise the home humidity level. Use an
outside clothes line in the summer if possible.
Dishwashers:
Energy Star dishwashers are 30% more efficient than 1994 standards. Models
with an "energy-saver" or short cycle option use less hot water
and energy. Run the washer when fully loaded only and turn off the drying
heater if possible and allow the dishes to air dry.
Refrigerators & Freezers:
Your freezer should be set no lower than 5° and your refrigerator will
work best at 40°. If your frig runs near 32°, ice crystals can begin
to form and lower the quality of foods such as raw fruits, vegetables and
eggs. Also, clean all appliances with coils at least once per year (exterior
AC, dehumidifier, frig, etc.).
Bath Fans:
Run bath fans at least a 1/2 hour or longer in summer after a shower or
bath. Vacuum all exhaust vents once per year (bath & kitchen) as well
as return and supply register covers.
Low Flow Shower Heads:
Use a gallon jug with a top cut
off to measure the gallons per minute (gpm) rate of your shower nozzle.
If it is more than 2.5 gpm, replace with a new reduced flow unit of 1.9
gpm or less. www.efi.org is a good site to buy energy efficient products
like this.
HVAC Maintenance:
I recommend that you have your furnace serviced in September and AC when
the outside temperatures reach above 60 degrees in the spring of every year
and keep the furnace filter clean by replacing when needed. Vacuum all supply
and return register covers at least once per year. It is best to remove
floor register covers and vacuum out the duct as much as possible as these
collect the most debris. To increase the life and efficiency of your water
heater, drain several gallons of water out of the tank each year to reduce
the amount of deposits that settle at the bottom.
Forced Air HVAC Balancing:
Unless you have an older system where a supply duct services more than one
outlet register, do NOT attempt to balance your conditioned air flow using
the closable flaps found on most modern day register covers. In other words,
do NOT close the registers in that unused bedroom or other rooms! Closing
the flap increases the pressure inside the duct which increases duct leakage.
This usually results in expensively conditioned air being lost to wall,
floor and other cavities that are often connected to the outdoors. Personally,
I have removed the flaps on my registers because even in the open mode,
they were an obstacle to air flow. System efficiency is increased by moving
a maximum amount of air flow through the system, especially with AC and
heat pumps, so the name of the game is, never impede air flow. This also
means that you should be careful not to block registers with curtains, furniture,
toys, etc. And, of course, make sure your furnace filter stays reasonably
clean because dirty ones can slow down air.
Programmable
Thermostat:
If you do not already have one and you have a regular schedule of times
away from home and sleep times, using a programmable thermostat to bump
down the heating season temps to 60 during the hours you are away or a sleep
will save 10% or more in energy costs. If so, the cost of the thermostat
can be paid off in less than a year.
Humidifiers:
Use humidifiers sparingly as dry homes last longer and have fewer health
issues than wet homes. Excessive dampness can lead to mold and mildew growth
in both areas you can see and sometimes in areas you can't see, like behind
bathroom walls or in the attic. Monitor home humidity levels and strive
to keep your home between 30% & 50% relative humidity in the winter
and between 40 & 60% in summer. You should not have to run an energy
hog dehumidifier in winter months.
Ceiling Fans:
In the winter, ceiling fans set on low will push warm air down away from
the ceiling and increase comfort without a draft. Speed up the fans and
use them in the summer to cool off individual rooms as they are less expensive
to use than the AC. A fan on a high speed can make the room feel as much
as four degrees cooler. Remember to turn off lights and the ceiling fan
when leaving a room. They only work when you are in that room.
Caulk Wall/Floor Junction:
If you replace carpet in any rooms with exterior walls, always make sure
that the exterior wall/floor junction is caulked tight as it is a very common
to have leakage in that location.
Gutter Guards:
Effective water management is one
of the most important things you can do to increase the durability and health
of your home. If downspouts are blocked and/or the grade slope away from
your home is not sufficient to carry away storm water, water can run down
the foundation wall and soak through the wall into your basement. Excessive
water infiltration can lead to all kinds of problems involving mold, mildew,
and rot. The leading cause of water infiltration is downspouts that get
blocked by tree debris and overflow near the house. If you don't already
have gutter guards, I have found that the snap-on nylon units with one or
two slits to allow water to enter the gutter via surface tension work wetter
than screen style units that seem to clog faster. If still available, I
have found the "WaterFall Gutter Guard System" to be a cost effective
product to help keep your gutters clean. Hartville Hardware has or used
to have the product in 4' sections that come in boxes of 20 sections or
80'. Or contact the company to the nearest dealer. A big flat head screwdriver
is used to snap the sections into the edge of the gutter.
Radon Test:
While more a safety than efficiency concern, Radon contamination has been
found to be at potentially dangerous levels in more than one third of all
homes in NE Ohio. The percentage is as high as 50% in Stark and Wayne counties.
Elevated Radon levels are a leading cause of lung cancer. Therefore, if
still available, I recommend getting an inexpensive test kit from Air Chek
Inc. at http://www.radon.com/sub/oh/ to test your basement for this hazard.
Lead Test:
If your home was built before 1978, lead based paints may have been used
in your home. Excessive lead poisoning can be very hazardous, especially
to younger children. Lead test kits are available on-line if you want to
confirm the existence of lead contamination. Window sills are a popular
place to test. One possible option is the "Lead Inspector Kit"
from Abotex. If lead is detected in your home, special dust containment
procedures should be used during any remodeling that will help reduce the
spread of lead containing dust throughout the house.
